Field Dispatch: Natural Habitat Antarctica Trip Pt.1

Typography
I am actually on my way - and I couldn't be more excited! Years of anticipation and hard work have finally paid off, and I'm headed to Antarctica. A world of ice and rock, water and sky, wind and cold. And, some of the richest, most unspoiled wildlife habitat on Planet Earth. I'm writing this from my cabin in the ice-hardened, former Russian research vessel: the Professor Multanovskiy. Recently converted to passenger service, the Multanovskiy is carrying me and 74 other souls (passengers, crew, and staff) to the Falkland Islands, South Georgia, and the Antarctic Peninsula.

I am actually on my way - and I couldn't be more excited! Years of anticipation and hard work have finally paid off, and I'm headed to Antarctica. A world of ice and rock, water and sky, wind and cold. And, some of the richest, most unspoiled wildlife habitat on Planet Earth.

I'm writing this from my cabin in the ice-hardened, former Russian research vessel: the Professor Multanovskiy. Recently converted to passenger service, the Multanovskiy is carrying me and 74 other souls (passengers, crew, and staff) to the Falkland Islands, South Georgia, and the Antarctic Peninsula. A bear biologist by training, I am serving as the World Wildlife Fund (WWF; www.worldwildlife.org) staff representative on this voyage operated by Natural Habitat Adventures (www.nathab.com).

My work as Species Director at WWF involves overseeing conservation projects all over the world, and I am here to provide perspective on global climate change impact on wildlife and how the WWF is helping to preserve this incredibly important ecosystem. We departed from Ushuaia, Argentina, six o'clock this evening on a journey that all of us have dreamed of for the longest time.

!ADVERTISEMENT!

As I write this five hours later, we are just clearing the Beagle Channel and headed for the open ocean. The magnificent views from the airplane windows during the approach into Ushuaia were just the first taste of the stunning mountains and glaciers we've passed along the way. And from the upper deck of the Multanovskiy we've already spotted albatross, several species of penguins, and even a few dolphins - just in the channel alone.

The prospect of seeing King and Adelie penguins, humpback whales, seals, walrus, and numerous bird species up close is a dream for any naturalist - and I'm certainly no exception. The reason for this incredible wildlife diversity is the Antarctic convergence, the boundary between the cold waters of Antarctica and the warmer sub-Antarctic oceans. The upwelling waters form a sharp boundary characterized by change in temperature (up to 2 degrees C cooler), salinity and nutrient levels that support vast amounts of plankton, krill and with it the whole web of species.

Additionally, this heat exchange between the equatorial region and the South Pole functions as an important stabilizer for the earth's climate. So what's the catch? The rough seas and seasickness stories in the Drake Passage are legendary. I've been on small vessels in Alaska's inside passage and around the Galapagos Islands, but these seas are in a completely different league. I've come prepared with motion sickness tablets, transdermal patches, and an electrostatic wrist band - hopefully at least one of those will work.

The cold could also be an issue. This evening on deck I was wearing long underwear, fleece, and my large Parka, and was only just comfortable. Compared to where we're headed it's not even close to being cold yet! But the Natural Habitat staff and my fellow passengers are absolutely terrific and I'm optimistic we will forget all about the cold.

So over the next three weeks I'll try to convey not just what we are seeing, but why these things are important - and what they mean to me personally. I'll also let you know how you can help in our efforts to preserve this region. A trip to Antarctica is a tremendously special experience, and I truly hope that you get the opportunity to come see it for yourself.

Read Field Dispatch: Natural Habitat Antarctica Trip Pt.2

Read Field Dispatch: Natural Habitat Antarctica Trip Pt. 3