For the first time since records began, the cold, nutrient-rich waters of the Gulf of Panama failed to emerge.

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When ecologist Patrick Sullivan flew into the Salmon River in Alaska to conduct a vegetation study in the summer of 2019, he was excited about paddling down the pristine Arctic river. Before he and his colleague got there, however, the pilot warned that they might not see what John McPhee had described, in his best-selling book Coming Into the Country, as the “purest water I have ever seen.”

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